As always for the end of NYFW, Marc Jacobs serves us all something that nobody really thought about. First of all, the setting- clouds that looked like fluffy little lambs, hung over the runway, and the guests sat on mushroom stools. Feels very psychedelic and relaxing. The soundtrack of this final New York collection was the endlessly repeated phrase “Happy Days are here again”.
Yes? So why the models had their faces so pale and hair so straight and rounded? So solemn… “After last season with all this Victoriana theme, all that black and heaviness, we wanted something light and calm- a cosmetic neutral palette colouring their hair and faces, and with women we respected” said Marc Jacobs at the backstage of the show. This collection was also one of the most important- it’s his first, independent collection without designing for Louis Vuitton and Marc by Marc Jacobs (that is now under Luella Bartley’s and Katie Hillier’s wings).
His women, solemn and fragile, reminded me of younger Michelle Pfeiffer and Barbra Streisand style- straight lines on minimalistic, pastel dresses, small boots, pin thin pants. Neutral colours were touched with sweet thanks to apricot coloured fur bomber jackets. And everything seemed to be very wearable…
What’s good (and makes me indeed happy) is that Marc Jacobs continues his surrealistic aesthetics and isn’t scared to have fun with fashion. The AW14 was a future statement- are the happy days coming up?