Single-Minded. Dior AW17 Couture

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Looking at Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s time-line at Dior, which started about a year ago, one thing’s sure – she doesn’t care about the critics and suggestions of others. She likes going one clear, single-minded direction per season, making her overall work feel like a set of trends, rather than a consistent story told by an experienced designer. Let’s go navy this season, let’s do ‘feminism’ this time, oh, maybe let’s do a Western theme!

So, what’s on the table this couture season? Fifty shades of grey, literally (expect three, four looks kept in multi-coloured patchwork). Heavy masculine coats, fedora hats, dusty ball-gowns for cosmopolitan ladies of early 20th century – you would expect something more radiant for a brand’s 70th anniversary. “Honestly, it’s completely different to see the real archive and the image that some people have about Christian Dior. There’s so much daywear.” Thought it’s a haute couture show, where you don’t give a damn about something like ‘daywear’ and instead go for imagination. Talking of Dior, the man – the  bar jacket is here. With this exhausted piece, Chiuri checks the box every season, saying that she finds a connection with the brand’s founder. But Maria Grazia should focus on making Dior feel contemporary, even for a billionaire’s wifes who will buy it later in the atelier. Or, I guess, this sells well, if she’s still at the maison

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Gordon Parks’ photo).

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2 Comments

  1. this was a stronger collection than anything else she’s done, and there is a desire to make Dior more cool, young, and trendy. Definitely approachable as apposed to Raf’s Dior.

    • Thank you for commenting Ayan! Love hearing your opinion. But I really can’t agree with you in case of Raf Simons, who definitely made Dior couture feel approachable. He experimented with the textures and fabrics for his couture collections, making ball gowns look airy and effortless. He wasn’t trying so hard to look back at the archives, even though he conveyed Christian Dior’s sense of elegance and chic like no other. The ones Maria Grazia does now are about a clear theme per season – I find this just too trivial for a maison with such heritage.

      Xx Ed

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