Nothing Superfluous. Proenza Schouler AW24

Proenza Schouler delivered a very proper collection; a reasonable proposition of a contemporary wardrobe. For autumn-winter 2024, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez finessed outerwear essentials, took tailoring cues from 90s New York’s finest Helmut Lang (in a definitely more convincing way than Peter Do), and stripped away anything superfluous. “The noise,” McCollough said. “It made us want to focus inward, focus on something a little intimate.” The tailoring was clean and sharp, but not severe. The parkas looked cool. The temptation to cocoon in cozy shearling vests and coats, of which there were many here, is highly relatable, and the Proenza Schouler designers can’t go wrong leaning into that instinct – we all want to feel good in these increasingly weary times.