Pina. Ferragamo AW25

For a second season in a row, Ferragamo‘s Maximilian Davis is inspired with contemporary dance. Pina Bausch was an in-your-face reference for autumn-winter 2025, just looking at the petal strewn runway (a nod to one of her most famous stagings, “Nelken“). Ballerina’s bodysuits from last collection got replaced with thicker jerseys, semi-sheer shifts and airy drapes. Two densely fringed mesh dresses near the end were hung with carnation-like florals. Some of the oversized tailored outerwear (the collection’s standout moments) echoed the masculine garments that Bausch was sometimes photographed wearing. It all seemed right. But in the end, something’s still missing in Maximilian’s vision for the Italian house.