HC: Modern Medieval. Dior AW14


The word that describes Raf Simons at Dior perfectly is future. But this time for Dior, he did it in a bit different way. In a Star Trek like chamber in Musee Rodin, where the whiteness of the orchidees and the marble floors striked the guests eyes, we had a venture through different centuries. Simons was interested, the program notes explained, about the way different time periods informed and influenced fashion. And more than that, he said afterward, he found himself thinking about Christian Dior’s fascination with the Belle Époque and asking himself, “If I had been [working] at that time, what would be my interest, conceptually or technically or architecturally? What would I be excited about?” The show was divided into eight groups, hopping not decades but centuries—for example, from the Marie Antoinette-inspired pannier silhouettes of the opening to astronauts’ jumpsuits, back to embroidered court jackets and forward again to twenties volumes. The floor lenght fur coats worn with over-sized trousers were my favourite. Looking at the collection, yes, indeed, it was beautiful. The embroidered bar jackets from 50’s and sweeping, long-line coats inspired by Edwardian era were all a fantasy. And Raf made all ultra pure and ultra modern, after all. With a tease of past.









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