One of the season’s most anticipated brands, Vetements, presented its anti-fashion collection in a tacky Chinese restaurant. But, even though the SS16 mood-board wasn’t focused on China nor on Asia, it reflected the spirit of this place through old-fashioned kitsch. Floral dresses inspired by Demna Gvasalia’s  aprons of his grandmother, sequined capes, velvet sweatshirts and tunics – and all of that bound up with ultra-long leather belts with Harley-Davidson-style buckles. The eerie soundtrack of the collection perfecly described the new season’s attitude – it began with gentle waltz and then abruptly descended into Mayhem – the Norwegian heavy metal group. The Vetements logo black hoodies featuring a graphic based on Leonardo Di Caprio and Kate Winslet in Titanic burst confusion (maybe one of Vetements’ designers loves / hates the film?), however the leather jackets that were constructed to be comfortable when sat on real bikes made much sense. The must-have, best-selling jeans were renewed to be more comfortable and affordable. In other words, Vetements for spring summer 2016 is rather an expansion of the last season’s wardrobe than a new idea. But in reality, it absolutely made the collection be more desirable, just like the cowboy boots or sock heels.

Photography by Chloé Le Drezen