Fade Away. Lanvin AW16

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I wonder how hateful is Lanvin‘s studio towards Alber Elbaz and the legacy he left at this historic house of Jeanne Lanvin. I mean, Cathy Horyn described the catastrophic situation in possibly the most fitting way – “Elbaz  spent 14 years reestablishing the link to Lanvin, reaching across a century. Last night, I had the feeling it was wiped out in 15 minutes.” I had precisely the same feeling Cathy had, when I saw this what happened at Lanvin’s autumn-winter 2016 outing in Paris.

The creative studio, which already has a shameful pre-fall collection behind it, presented a collection filled with saccharine dresses, which are far from Jeanne’s heritage design, and even farther from Alber’s beloved, draped cocktail dresses and imperfect, Parisian chic, which featured the hearty, unfinished edges. There are no pearls in this collection, which is just unbelievable – pearl necklaces were Lanvin’s all-time signatures (like Coco Chanel’s), and Elbar always respected that in his gracious collections. The season, created by the studio, is a bit rock’n’roll, a bit decadent, but in overall, it’s a wannabe of this what Alber translated during his tenure. Everything seems to be so sleek to death. And the pastel pink colour fades on the background of the beige carpet, just like the brand itself. Or the “genius” Shaw-Lan Wang, who fired Alber Elbaz, finds a new creative director with a precise vision for the maison… or else the brand will head to a sad place called fashion oblivion.

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