Tory Burch keeps on thriving. It’s a real pleasure seeing how this designer evolves creatively throughout the last couple of seasons, all thanks to her thorough study of Claire McCardell’s all-American, elegant designs. Spring-summer 2024 is a beautiful continuation of Burch’s take on femininity, through a slightly retro-tinged lens. There were bits of space-age sensibility: crinoline rings that formed the bouncy hems of viscose knit dresses, in the uniform-like sensibility of the collarless bonded jersey jackets she paired with super-short minis, and in the ergonomically designed molded plastic handbags. The designer said she’d been thinking about what “effortless” means now. She liked the idea of clothing that “frees up your mind.” Clothes should unencumber you, not complicate your life. The thigh-high hems conveyed a carefree, youthful attitude, especially since they were paired with flat shoes, but the plunging U-necks, held in place with what looked like tie clips, might not prove as easy to wear. Nylon taffeta zip polos worn with tech-y pants got closer to the effortlessness she said she was aiming for. A coat, coatdress, and skirt suit with stand-away collars had a more vintage-y look, in keeping with the ’60s influences we’ve seen elsewhere this New York Fashion Week – like at Altuzarra.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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