Characters. Magliano AW24

Luca Magliano is the name that finally shakes up the term “emerging designer” in case of Italian fashion – which has always been monopolized by the hegemony of big brands. Being the guest designer at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, Magliano presented a collection that delivered the true, uncompromising essence of the brand: poetic, heavy-on-tailoring clothes with a punk spirit at heart. Characters – not just models – swathed in gray, mud and sage green garments strode the long staircase used as a runway at the Nelson Mandela Forum. What stood out the most was the layering which in case of Magliano goes to extremes and carries a certain sense of fluidity: a varsity jacket worn over a too-long chunky sweater, an over-sized Armani-esque jacket topping a billow-y shirt and voluminous cargo pants, a plum, buttoned cardigan styled as cape over a black boucle coat… the list of outfit-sandwiches goes on and on. What else makes this brand so different comparing to the gloss and perfectionism of Italian runways is the styling that feels spontaneous and utterly authentic. Autumn-winter 2024 hero look: the silver fox model in sequined pants and a cat-bearing fuzzy sweater, plus unexpected accessories: a what seems to be plastic grocery bag and velvet slippers in burgundy. It’s just the beginning of menswear fashion month, but this look already seems to be one of my ultimate favorites of the season.