Valentino guests sat on bright blue benches that stood out against the gilded decor. But those expecting a runway awash in cerulean were in for a surprise. Rather than leaning into gender stereotypes, Pierpaolo Piccioli used the color as a starting point for a conversation about masculinity. “This collection is a reflection about men’s identity today without talking about gender, but talking about the way men today can be more gentle, more graceful,” he explained in a preview. “When you break the rules from inside, you can be more subtle and more subversive.” Oversize suits, relaxed outerwear and sweeping coats came in sober shades of black, navy and gray. Piccioli said he wanted his suit jackets, which had no buttons, to feel as comfy as cardigans. Pants were inspired by the suit proportions of the ’40s – cropped and slouchy, yet elegant. Piccioli’s statement was so quiet as to be almost inaudible. This served the collection, as it was a much-needed moment of tranquility after a long menswear fashion month and the haute couture week starting… today. Who makes these crazy schedules?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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