Sheer. Saint Laurent AW24

The Anthony Vaccarello method for Saint Laurent is about finding a distinct element from Yves’ vast archive, and blowing it up on the contemporary runway. In 1988, YSL had an obsession with billow-y, sheer fabrics that wrapped the female body, but at the same time left nothing much to imagination. Following this trope, Vaccarello presented an all-sheer collection yesterday in Paris. It did look like a statement. But there’s one burning question: with Saint Laurent’s huge platform and worldwide influence, wouldn’t it be great to cast at least a couple of models with curvier, fuller shapes? Wouldn’t that make a collection like this even more fiercer and, to some extent, grounded in reality? The transparency of all these silks seems to only embrace the thinness of Vaccarello’s models. Not even the fabulous powder puff marabou jackets that were casually draped over the arms helped conceal the Ozempic-ness of this collection.