At Rabanne (I still can’t get used to the cropping of Paco), a palpably different current coming from Julien Dossena. “I was craving just to do clothes. Maybe because of the climate of the world,” he said. Instead of sending down the runway another chainmail splendor, this season he’d been inspired by looking “at how girls are dressed when I see them walking around Paris, and on the metro coming to work every day,” he said. “I was really interested in just observing people. It’s a sort of collage of stuff, mixing everything together; a personal kind of intimacy with what makes people most individual.” The pick-and-mix of it, layers upon layers of cardigans, Argyle sweaters, miniskirts, shirts, jackets, trousers, and biker overalls, was a masterclass in how to make a zillion clashing patterns work together as if you haven’t tried too hard. Très parisien.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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