Sabato De Sarno can play the most uplifting Italian music, riff on Tom Ford and Frida Gianini’s archives, have all the models of the moment walk his runway and talk lots about big feelings, but I still don’t his Gucci. When you unpack the spring-summer 2025 collection from an envelope of good-looking marketing ploy, you end up with unimaginative, poorly edited and most of the time stiff-looking clothes that are neither desirable or anything close to jet-set style that seemed to be this season’s key inspiration.

P.s The neon-green bathrobe in Gucci monogram must be a joke. It’s 2024, come on!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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