Gods & Monsters. Valentino AW25

The Paris shows either offered a new, radical take on mundane realism (the “give us nothing” energy) or a walk down the nostalgia lane. The 1980s are everywhere you look, from the shoulders to the brisky patterns and colors. But this season the presence of the 1980s aren’t giving the confidence of a “power look” – but rather, the crippling feeling of recession, stock market crash and melancholia.

Some designers know what to do with the past and are capable of communicating something about the contemporary times with all that vintage affection. Alessandro Michele is one of them. He believes that in order to understand the present and have an idea of the future, you must know the past. His sophomore Valentino collection might look clunky and unedited at first, but when you a look at it again, you see how telling it is about what’s the state of fashion is in 2025. Overstimulation. Oversaturation. Overpoweredness. Michele’s models of all ages walked to the tune of Lana Del Rey’s “Gods & Monsters” in their embellished dresses, so-tacky-it’s-good satins and genderless lace, certainly not knowing where they are headed to. The vibe was kind of apocalyptic, but since we’re still alive, why not be all glammed up? One of the closing looks – a stuffy, fur-trimmed cardigan worn over a black velvet dress and styled with pony-hair boots tied with a bow – looked so odd and so out of place you just can’t help but feel… intrigued.

While doing market research in Paris I also noticed how high quality Michele’s Valentino really is. These clothes are done with such care and precision that they will look as good as now in 20, 30 years. Just like vintage that we love and wear today, being decades old. The quality of clothes used to be better in the past, and Michele learns a lesson from that. The designer’s autumn-winter 2025 collection stuns with craftsmanship too – even if it’s sometimes so layered up you can barely see it.