Peter Copping delivered a sublime sophomore season at Lanvin. Not only would Jeanne Lanvin be proud – I believe Alber Elbaz would have loved it too. Blue – specifically a dusty shade of Giotto blue – has been synonymous with the house since Jeanne’s days. This season, Copping employed it in a myriad of electrifyingly beautiful ways: from the runway’s setting to a phenomenally chic, parachute-volume silk blouse.
But that wasn’t the end of his references to Lanvin’s core codes. He confidently revisited the drop-waisted, wide-panniered robe de style of the mid-1920s – Jeanne Lanvin’s all-time signature – recasting it as something absolutely contemporary and effortlessly wearable.
Ribbons also appeared, woven, tied, or left to flow as fringes: a respectful nod to Elbaz, who had resurrected the maison from years of obsolescence. The collection unfolded as a visual feast, a solid offering that restores Lanvin’s place as an arbiter of Parisian chic.
Copping clearly knows what he’s doing – with Jazz Age geometric prints, moiré coats, and a refreshingly sensual menswear silhouette: a cropped trench paired with short shorts. And let’s not forget the headwraps.
ED’s SELECTION:
Lanvin Draped Crepe De Chine Maxi Dress
Lanvin Scarf-detailed Gathered Lamé Blouse
Lanvin Asymmetric Satin-trimmed Wool Skirt
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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