What’s Coperni Femme? Whether or not you accept the conncetion of Copernicus to womenswear, this latest collection from Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant made a strong case for exploiting  an idea of pure forms. A bit scientific, a bit cosmic (the name of the label isn’t lying), a bit feminine – Coperni Femme duo’s integration of circles were very literal (disks of leather, suede, and papery metal patched together with “topstitched” crosses). Even the shoes – with these circles! – talked geometry. Also, a lot of genuine ways of wearing the clothes appeared: a detachable ruffled cuff in blue could be “twisted around the wrist, extended up the sleeve, and affixed to the shoulder, or left to dangle like an architectural tail.” Genius.

In the meantime, as winners of ANDAM’s First Collections Prize and among the short list for the LVMH Prize, Meyer and Vaillant already gained the status of new era designers – they think through the future perspective. Although their AW15 clothes look simple at first sight, they are ultra-sophisticated and smart in the detail.