Ethereal. Danielle Frankel AW23

The world of Danielle Frankel‘s bridal-wear redefines that whole fashion category, making it feel truly a dream. A wedding dress coming from Frankel’s atelier is a chef’s kiss. Just take a look at her latest offering. The opening look of the New York-based designer’s autumn-winter 2023 collection is a sleeveless dress featuring a silk wool twill bodice with an architectural mock neck, and corset-like details that wrap around the waist to meet a hand-cut lace-decorated linen organza skirt with an exaggerated tulip shape that falls to the ankle. It is light as air, and accessorized with an oversized straw hat decorated with hundreds of tiny flowers. The look is simultaneously evocative of another time while being grounded in the now. “I like to look back a lot more than what’s going on currently,” the designer said. “I was looking at a lot of the New Look; Dior, Balenciaga, and that era where you had these really dramatic silhouettes – but we’re making a contemporary version of that.” She nailed it – it’s rare to see such brilliant takes on the fashion history classics today. Frankel’s designs radiate with refinement, but also with an eternally youthful spirit: many of the looks consisted of mini-dresses worn over ankle-grazing skirts (perhaps to ensure these pieces get to be worn long after their walk down the aisle). A shiny silk wool spaghetti-strap mini dress with Chantilly lace appliqué at the hem and a matching maxi skirt worn with a silk cashmere mock neck sweater, its sleeves scrunched up to make way for dramatic opera-length gloves, recalled that favorite ’90s combo of a baby tee worn underneath a vintage satin slip dress, only more elegant. There was also a bit of the ’90s in a spaghetti strap column dress covered in Chantilly lace and ivory organza strips whose hand-frayed edges gave the impression of a very delicate fur. These looks are bridal because they are white, and delicate, and formal; but they could just as well be part of an everyday-wardrobe if they were made in other colors or fabrics. A boxy matte silk wool men’s tuxedo was another modern addition. Elsewhere, pieces made from genuine baroque pearls embroidered unto transparent sequins were simultaneously opulent and minimalist. So, who’s planning a wedding this year?!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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One thought on “Ethereal. Danielle Frankel AW23

  1. What a breath of fresh air to see this collection! The bridal space, so understandably rooted in tradition, often feels so formulaic. Danielle Frankel gives real choice to people interested in something else. The collection is vibrant, sophisticated and feels so alive. Kudos to Danielle and her entire team!!

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