Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe was a dialogue between the normal and the extreme. He proved that we can have both at the same time. The spring-summer 2024 collection kicked off with an Anderson statement of reduction, where cardigan-dresses were knitted with a loose gauge and fastened with beaten gold buttons, blown up to playful proportions. The silhouette from the designer’s recent menswear show – high, high trousers and a cropped shirt – influenced a couple of womenswear numbers. Anderson is a master of making mundane clothing spectacular, and the spectacular clothing, astonishing. Take the leather shorts which were pinned with a sewing needle crafted in gold-toned metal, artistically holding the pleats in place. On the other hand, two tops were created from crystal-encrusted flowers, hanging together like one sculptural piece. Skirts were all about the art of asymmetry to create pleats that fell like an accordion down one side of the leg.  The designer also indulged in proportion play: things that aren’t usually massive, like a ring, were huge. Jeans were wide wide. Cocoon ponchos were so comfortable you just wanted to wrap yourself up inside it. But then, in true whiplash fashion, Anderson presented silk dresses that effortlessly flowed down the runway, topping the chest with a pin-punched square.

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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