For his third showcase at Fashion East, the sensational Standing Ground designer Michael Stewart doubled down on his statuesque yet ethereal aesthetic in a collection – entitled Tethys, a reference to the prehistoric Tethys Sea which was an early ocean formed about 35 million years ago when most of the countries of the earth were still one large landmass- made from offcuts and leftover fabrics. This time, the palette was inspired by the pastoral landscapes of Ireland, featuring shades of powder blue and moss green. There were column dresses with ruched detailing adorned with intricate beading. “While I’ve developed something of a distinct aesthetic that’s a combination of technique and form, this season’s pieces have a certain purity and softness, while maintaining something of a sci-fi vibe,” he shared ahead of the show back in September. Ever since founding Standing Ground in 2022, Stewart has strictly dedicated himself to the canvas of the evening gown. He is a designer who knows the importance of a sharp fold and a glamorous wrinkle. Naturally, his spring-summer 2024 outing delivered that in abundance. The construction of these pieces was exquisite. It will be hard to forget the cobalt blue gown constructed from a single piece of fabric or the green crushed velvet number that genuinely made that notoriously tacky fabric look couture. Of course, the beaded accoutrements were the stars of the show. The show notes described them as “Xenomorphic coils, conjuring subliminal techno-erotics and a gothic posthumanism.” They encrusted the dresses like barnacles, or a H.R. Giger-style exoskeleton.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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