Day & Night. Chloé (by Phoebe Philo) SS02

Since Phoebe Philo‘s big comeback that we’ve all experienced during the late autumn, I love digging into her work at Chloé – an underrated era from early 2000s, before reinventing Céline. What I find truly intriguing is that Philo subtly refers to her Chloé days in her new work. For her spring-summer 2002 debut , avoiding in-your-face rock ’n’ roll attitude, the British designer blurred the distinction between day and evening wear with breezy separates inspired by ’70s Saint Tropez, Brigitte Bardot, and Talitha Getty. A sense of easygoing elegance permeated everything from fitted tops with intricately worked sleeves to lace-trimmed camisoles and fabulous monkey-appliqué bathing suits. A long suede skirt with blush gray and black panels exuded earthy chic, as did the Moroccan-style beaded bags and sandal-boots in aged gold leather. There were also plenty of high-impact sexy staples, a category Philo and Stella McCartney introduced to the brand during the latter’s tenure (Phoebe was Stella’s right-hand at that time). The low-slung flared pants with flirty cutouts at the hips, pinafore shorts, summery minidresses and punchy T-shirts with net backs could easily pass in 2023 and look absolutely HOT.

P.S. I also happen to have an amazing macramé blouse from this collection, waiting for a new owner in my vintage shop!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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