Masterclass. Wales Bonner AW24

This Paris Fashion Week, there are brands that scream and shout into the void. But there are also brands like Wales Bonner that focus on quiet gestures with grand impacts. The autumn-winter 2024 collection, titled “Dream Study“, was the result of Grace Wales Bonner‘s time spent in Howard University’s Moorland-Springarn Research Centre, imbuing a contemporary collegiate wardrobe with nostalgic sentiment for its illustrious alumni. What really caught her interest in the storied Black university’s archives, though, were the yearbooks. “Particularly the ones from the 1990s,” she explained. “Every year they have a homecoming, with performances of different hip-hop artists coming to celebrate. So it was kind of both exploring the history of the place, but also this kind of musical intersection that’s always been something important to me. So I was thinking about conscious and cosmic hip-hop. How it kind of takes on the mantle of intellectual thinking, and kind of takes it further.” Models (Tyler Mitchell and Imaan Hammam among them) wore academic staples, beautifully adorned, as well as relaxed cashmere knitwear, tailoring trimmed with crocheted Indian mirror-work, while outwear pieces were crafted from vintage kantha quilts. Note the feather brooches which were dotted with pearls, lapiz lazuli and amethyst beads. It’s fascinating to watch how Wales Bonner does this: teaching, foregrounding academic literary references (with every show, there’s a reading list), creating delightful, never-overworked collection (just over 30 looks), and building long-term collaborations with entities as far apart in fashion as adidas and Anderson and Sheppard of Savile Row.