Need For (Self)Reflection. Alexander McQueen AW24

Séan McGirr‘s debut collection for Alexander McQueen was the most anticipated moment of the season. Maybe that too emotional anticipation has caused all that unnecessary critic-turned-into-hate that has spilled all over the internet? Yes, McGirr’s first collection for the brand leaves you with a confused impression: who is this new McQueen for? What’s the sense of the brand without even one person in it that was actually close to Lee (Sarah Burton filled these shoes, sometimes too monotonously, but at least coherently)? Should Alexander’s work be that literally referenced? Still, please give that young designer, who started his job in December (not even three months ago…), a moment for (self)reflection. Some of his ideas, like making the brand more “assertive and hedonistic”, sound somewhat promising. But to make any sense that appointment, I think McGirr should try looking for the hungrier, grittier, darker and naughtier in himself, and not just revisiting and remixing Lee’s archives.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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