Delightful Insouciance. Zegna SS25

Mads Mikkelsen closed Zegna‘s spring-summer 2025 show, and also men’s Milan Fashion Week. Alessandro Sartori‘s take on the brand is always a pleasure to see, and a reminder that maybe there’s no need in reinventing the wheel. In the end, the best clothes are the ones that strike with quality and look always great, whatever trend is terrorizing the streets at the moment. Wearing Zegna, a man (or woman – Sartori confidently tips his toes in this field too!) doesn’t have to overthink his appearance, because these garments do all the work for him. The latest collection had a nuance of sensuality that was “quintessentially Italian, a certain idea of Italian elegance in the ’60s,” a feel for lightness and insouciance that seemed to break away from Sartori’s renowned, disciplined minimalism. The designer has translated traditional suiting into a luxe version of sportswear, and has given workwear an elaborate, rich new identity. His work is about hybridization of the highest refined order, with a constant tension in reducing the categories of masculine dressing and finding new solutions to liberate classics from the weight of their codes. He does it brilliantly, and with one of the best color palettes in the industry!