Essential Beauty Routine. Marni SS25

It’s Francesco Risso‘s ninth year at Marni. His work at the brand took different turns, from being avant-garde-sketchy to raw and crude (like last season). Spring-summer 2025 was a pursuit after beauty. “Beauty is a white rabbit,” said Risso backstage. “You chase it, though you fall short in capturing it.” But he actually took grasp of it, especially in closing part of the collection, inspired with bygone era of fashion shows and 1950s haute couture, through a lens of “Funny Face“. Slender silhouettes in soft hues, small hourglass dresses shaped by vertical pleats, tight siren skirts with stiff ruched hems – this is Marni that will certainly attract the clients to the stores. But this wouldn’t be Risso’s Marni if it was all pretty and prim. The collection was made of humble cotton, being a “thread that mends relationships and wounds, guiding us back to the right path after we’ve strayed and leading us toward what I call the essential beauty routine“. The seemingly rough, canvas texture of broad-shouldered jackets, pleated trousers and cut-out skirts gave the collection a sense of “work in progress“. In Risso’s world, beauty isn’t a constant. It’s something you look out for with patience and perseverance.