Francesco Risso keeps on being Milan’s enfant terrible. His Marni – especially the one we see on the runway, not necessarily in the shops – channels wild exuberance and pursuits nonchalance that feels utterly out of place in the most industrial fashion capital of them all. His artsy approach is always a moment of escapism amidst all the serious brands showing here, and this season the designer fully indulged in this sort of Little Edie mindset. But there’s a fine line between experimental bravery and looking like an art school project. This season, I didn’t entirely buy into Risso’s fussy, unflattering-looking fantasy.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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