I really loved Hodakova’s collection for its roughness. Just like at The Row and Balenciaga, the line-up carried a sense of highlighting the mundane, the unfiltered reality. Ellen Hodakova Larsson’s interest in the theoretical concept of new materialism defines her brand – and has been her main focus ever since launching her eponymous label. Her garments, often made from pre-existing objects and materials, are full of personality. Coats made from upcycled fur and leather belts aggressively sticking out of sheath dresses are Hodakova’s most intriguing new-season experiments. The very riskily cropped pants gave the line-up sleazy sensuality… all that felt truly cool, yet somewhat disturbing – just like contemporary life. The penultimate look featured the base of a snare drum, which could have been an accessory or a skirt, and the finale was a model somewhat suffocatingly confined in a double bass, with her head and legs free. Cate Blanchett (who regularly wears Hodakova on the red carpet) playing Lydia Tár comes to mind immediately.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!