Sometimes all you want from a haute couture collection is a goddamn great evening dress. Armani Privé, under the helm of Silvana Armani, delivers exactly that. Of course, Mr. Armani’s niece won’t escape living in the maestro’s shadow. There’s a peculiarly Italian curse surrounding family-run fashion houses: the successor always seems destined to struggle against the legacy of their blood predecessor. Just look at Versace, Missoni, or Etro. Wild rumours are already swirling about who might become the next creative director(s) to steer the Armani empire. But, much like Leo Dell’Orco‘s excellent recent menswear collection proved, why change something that already works?

Some of Silvana’s instincts do feel slightly dated, but that seems more like a styling issue than a design one. Give her someone like Suzanne Koller to shake things up, and the conversation could be very different. Once again, Armani Privé excels where it matters most: the dresses. A sequence of sculptural evening gowns, their fluid lines offset by architectural necklines, delivered a genuine frisson of drama. The restraint and confidence of these silhouettes are virtually beyond criticism. And Silvana clearly has a taste for something with a little more swagger. Just look at the velvet-skirted look with its sheer leopard bodice. It’s easily one of the finest looks of this haute couture season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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