Men’s – Sailors and The Sea. Prada AW16

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Via Jeanne Damas Instagram

Even though the fashion world seems to be a happy place, Miuccia Prada makes a statement – it’s an industry, where everything is influenced by the world’s problems. The autumn-winter 2015 show is not only about new ideas and new bags – it delves much deeper. Curiosity about other people and about the world the designer lives in made this collection one of the most thoughtful Prada outings ever. “That is what is really interesting,” says she. “What people relate to, what fascinates them, how the fusion of fashion and culture makes people react.” Moreover, Miuccia has openly stated that she was thinking about the immigration, famine and a world-wide pessimism during the design process – and this explains the defining, sailor theme of this collection, which was frequently misinterpreted with Moby Dick’s tale. However, this time Prada takes it in a realistic way.

But a fashion show is about fashion, of course. The menswear part was mesmerizing, considering the clothes and the styling tricks. Most of the looks were topped off with a sailor cap and many of the opening men’s looks were focused on short-sleeved button-up shirts printed with retro-inspired imagery. Deconstructed shirting, printed with Christophe Chemin‘s surreal illustrations, appeared in various forms, like extra packets on tops and additional collars worn over coats. In overall, the men’s wardrobe had a survivor-like manner, noting the bare torsos and unbottoned shirts the models wore, If talking of the womenswear part, Prada delivered beautiful silhouettes for her pre-fall 2016 – the designer’s models like (Natalie Westling, Lineisy Montero and Mica Arganaraz) moved down the runway in woolen tights, ginger leather coats and sleek, midi-lenght dresses. The classy, velvet pumps worn with socks looked, as usual, unfailing. Summing up, the collection was like a storm among the pretty and calm menswear collections in Milan.

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