Similar to Rodarte, Proenza Schouler returned to New York fashion week after a stint in Paris. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez immediately switched everything, from sensibility to the production of the new season clothing. No more feathers, meticulous embroideries and laborious craftsmanship. The feeling is New York, not Paris. Real, laid back. And that’s something that works for Proenza Schouler best. Even though I loved their last two collections they did in Europe, it was quite perceivable that the ‘prestige’ surrounding the French capital might not entirely be their cup of tea.
Their collection happens to be one of my favourites from what we’ve seen up to date in New York. First, the simplicity: most of the pieces were made in either cotton or denim. This also means that the price point will be much lower than the current collection that’s in stores. Military-style jacket with a high collar looked so good with wide-leg trousers, and a drop-waist dress in bleached denim is exactly what every summer wardrobe needs. The over-sized, tie-dyed shirts with random snapshot of New York had that art gallery feeling I always adored in Proenza Schouler, New Yorker mode. Oh, the bags. The bags! So big and comfortable. Perfect. I bet that from all the brands that show in New York this season, Proenza Schouler might expect the biggest success in retail. And not because of some shallow ‘fashion’, but well-made, contemporary-looking clothes women will wear everyday, for different occasions. That’s actually the core of the brand since it’s first days – to deliver remarkable, sort of edgy styles to intelligent, self-aware females.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.