We’ve all gone crazy for Julien Dossena‘s spring-summer 2019 collection for Paco Rabanne. It just felt so effortless, so beautifully balanced. What happened this season? I guess the designer tried slightly too hard. His latest collection is extremely bourgeoisie, but to an extent where it’s really difficult to trace anything that’s Rabanne or, actually, Dossena. All those rhinestones, florals, zebra prints, bling bling… Julien often repeats that his Paco has to be as modern, as the original was back in the days of the founder. This collection wasn’t modern. It was (simply saying) overfilled with details. For spring, Dossena did the must-have ‘Lose Yourself’ t-shirt in tie-dye, which was styled with a sarong skirt. This time, though, the designer lost himself too much.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.