New Rawness. Gauchere AW22

If you’re looking for brilliant, youthful tailoring with a raw twist in Paris, Gauchere is the brand you need. In less than 10 years, Marie-Christine Statz has developed a loyal following for her chic, minimalist aesthetic. Building on that, for autumn-winter 2022 the designer stuck to a restrained, mostly monochrome palette of black, deep blue, burgundy, anthracite and taupe to further explore what the brand stands for: sharp silhouettes and materials, plus a savvy dose of texture that’s clean, unfussy and interesting. Her opening look, for example, was a halter top that can be worn hooked over a shoulder or left long, an idea that returned on a faux minimalist, layered dress. Oversized suiting with slightly sloped shoulders nodded to budding interest in the brand among men, and was shown paired with bandeaux and fluid, high-waisted trousers. Three-dimensional fabrics brought the texture, for example fuzzy tech yarns. Patent leather gave a jean-style jacket gloss. Denim was chosen for its new-gen, water-wise washes. Sculptural evening dresses – like a trio of black gowns or fully sequined minidress in black or white – made the case for less is more, today and many moons from now. But her own account, Statz “doesn’t do crazy.” In times like these, that’s a considerable advantage, and one that her growing base is grateful to count on.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.


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