Rosie Assoulin‘s autumn-winter 2022 collection radiates with cheerful vibrance and off-kilter charm. The new season offering is driven by experimental silhouettes and idiosyncratic details that make the designer’s clothes always so compelling. The biggest surprise is the play with big hips, inspired by 19th century panniers. But in case of Assoulin, such fashion statements never feel “too” evening or “too” red carpet – those are charismatic garments for a bold personality that loves the process of dressing up on the daily basis. What makes the New York-based designer stand out is her ability to transform everyday life observations into fashion. The opening look, in powder blue moire accented by caramel-colored gloves, is a crop top with a jutting ruffle inspired by the silicone bib Assoulin’s young daughter wears while eating. The skirt mirrors the top’s 3-D shape, but while the latter feels futuristic, the former is historical. Still, they work together, the sweeping fabric with the sculptural accents. The folkish patterns feel lively and naive in a good way: nature-inspired watercolor prints run throughout the collection, and on the vegan shearling coats (obsessed!) they look straight out of the 1970s. In our turbulent and highly disturbing times, the simple message behind the top with an oval front depicting a blossoming tree and its roots speaks volumes. The tree’s symbolism of constant evolution was crucial to Assoulin’s conception of the collection. P.S. Pay attention to the accessories: the label’s signature jug hand-bags are back!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.