Y/Project‘s Glenn Martens continues to push the limitations of fabrics in ways only he knows how. Like proposing swollen jeans that frothed in off-kilter formations, or controlling heaps off the fabric into severe hooded bomber jackets dyed in ecclesiastical purple. Warped and wonderfully weird, other standouts from the spring-summer 2024 collection included distorted negligee frocks worn with necklaces shaped like snakes (a Britney Spears moment), crumpled up crop tops, and a series of metal foil gowns that looked as if they were constructed from molten lava. This is a designer firmly in his own league.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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