Dance It Out. Simone Rocha SS25

“When people see the collection I want them to have license to interpret it themselves” said Simone Rocha said of her spring-summer 2025 collection, adding: “I’d never be interested in fashion that’s defining a look or defining how someone should feel.” Her latest offering – striking a balance between experimental and wearable – did spark a spectrum of emotions. Just like dance. Michael Clark and Pina Bausch were cited as influences. Bausch’s Nelken (her carnation-strewn piece exploring extreme and traumatic love) had a significant cameo, lending its floral motif to this Rocha collection. Some of the models wore tutus topped by over-sized, languid jackets, with their hands crossed as if they were leaving a ballet rehearsal – or a bad relationship. The collection was also about transparency: sheer organza shirts for boys, barely-there, translucent dresses and coats for the Rocha ballerinas. Performative, but, intimate, multidimensional, yet light: Simone Rocha is finding great pleasure in playing with contrasts.