Pieter Mulier’s spring–summer 2026 collection for Alaïa felt like a welcome palette cleanser after last season’s alien-like padded rolls and body-morphing silhouettes. Not that he has abandoned his fascination with silhouette manipulation – the latest collection’s body-enveloping cocoon dresses made the models appear even taller, their figures elongated and almost stretched. Yet there was a distinct sense of harmony and restraint this time: the not-overworked, high-necked jackets and crisp top-slash-mini-dresses exuded confidence rather than spectacle.
Some looks – particularly the zipped-up leather blouson paired with a fringed scarf, or the shaggy ecru coat – had a touch of Phoebe Philo’s sensibility (which only made me wish even more for her to finally do runway). This influence, however, served the collection well, keeping it grounded and unfussy.
Azzedine Alaïa was a devoted believer in the “less is more” philosophy. Mulier seems to be taking notes.
ED’s SELECTION:
Alaïa Cotton-poplin Barrel-leg Pants
Alaïa Double-breasted Wool-gabardine Blazer
Alaïa Le Click E/w Small Leather Shoulder Bag
Alaïa Laser-cut Suede Ballet Flats
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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