Paris saw two debuts at historic maisons that were originally found by women. The first was a proper, but mild restart at Lanvin by Bruno Sialelli. The second appeared to be at Nina Ricci, where Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh took the role of creative directors. The couple have a menswear label, Botter, whose oversize tailoring and energetic humor caught the attention of the fashion world last year, made them LVMH Prize finalists and scored a top design award at the Festival d’Hyères. They’ve never designed womenswear, but LVMH gave them a blank page. So you could actually expect anything. The designers decided to play rather safe and referred to Ricci herself, whose fashion was roamntic, airy and light. Rushemy and Lisi cleared the garments of any unneeded details, like lace or embroideries, and delived a line-up of minimalist, yet feminine silhhouettes. There were organza tops and flowing gowns, but we’ve also had beautifully constructed suits and over-sized shirting. For me, this collection lacked the intrigue that Guillaume Henry (Botter and Herrebrugh’s precedessor that parted ways with the brand quite abruptly) delivered to the brand. But I’m paying attention to what’s coming from the new creative directors in the near future.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.