Maryam Nassir Zadeh never dissapoints with her take on a spontaneous, feminine (but not too obvious) wardrobe. For her spring-summer 2020 collection, staged at a real-life park in the Lower East Side, the beloved New York-based designer had a number of inspirations that might have nothing in common: the beach, rave parties, John Cassavetes films, menswear and safari suits. But the way Nassir Zadeh puts her clothes together is beautifully edgy and sooner or later trickles down to bigger brands’ aesthetics (Ganni, I see you!). After her stay at Formentera, the designer loves wearing swimsuits as real clothes, so styling a bikini top with a masculine blazer was a sure thing for her to send down the runway (or rather, the park’s sports field). There was something very Prada spring-summer 1996 about this line-up as well. That was the moment Miuccia Prada officially introduced the good taste of bad taste with the ugly-pretty styling, sludge browns, avocado greens and hand-drawn prints (a nearly identical pattern appears in look 14, where Maryam puts together a matching yellow bikini with a pencil skirts and tops all that with a tiny, beige cardigan). Probably, 90s Prada wasn’t a straight-forward reference for Maryam, but then, who knows? This period in fashion is a gift that keeps on giving. Back to Nassir Zadeh. Granny-ish crotchet tops with beige bermuda shorts – and they look surprisingly good! – a neon green dress worn with an artisan glass necklace, a very mini mini-skirt styled with knee-lenght boots: these are just some examples of Maryam’s new season offerings. Plus, consider the collection as a styling cheat-sheet – those looks are just perfect for now, for September, when you still feel summer, but it’s getting colder.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.