Men’s – Classico. Junya Watanabe AW20

Junya Watanabe had one word to sum up his show in praise of Italian men: classico. A group of immaculately grizzled dudes, in different ages, not necessarily models, had nonchalantly strolled his runway, most in trilbies and flat caps. Some of them shook hands, back slapped, even talked to each other. Tweeds were implanted with racing car jackets, gold chains flashed at their necks, paisley scarves were tucked into unbuttoned shirts: Watanabe’s eye-catching guys were off for an aperol meet-up or some very Italian business talk. Anyone who spends time in Italy recognizes these sorts of guys. They are in Milan, Parma, Portofino, Torino, Florence, in every Italian town, possessed of an enviable, effortless style. Italian racing cars were also an inspiration for Junya. Retro-revered typefaces were patch-worked into fragments of padded souvenir jackets on tailoring and they came from Pirelli, Brembo, Abarth and many other companies. Practical, affectionate, good-natured, real – the Watanabe men are exactly that.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

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