Fierce, bold, shocking – that’s how one might describe Daniel Roseberry‘s Schiaparelli, now known and loved for magnificent couture, surreal molded leather torso bags and jewellery that is all about human anatomy. The ready-to-wear business is blooming as well – something that makes the designer’s position among Parisian insiders and maisons even more important. Autumn-winter 2022 was his most relatable collection so far, rooted in denim embroidered with the illustrations he did for the tablecloths at a Bergdorf Goodman dinner last autumn, and knits that included riffs on Schiap’s famous trompe l’oeil intarsias. Roseberry pointed out that ready-to-wear came first for Schiaparelli and couture only after she’d achieved some level of success. As synonymous as she is with surrealism, the woman had a pragmatic streak. No one would mistake Roseberry for a maker of basics, but there’s an American honesty to the jeans here with their double S’s on the back pockets, and to stretch velvet and stretch leather pieces that take their shapes from athletic wear. As a native of Dallas, Roseberry grew up in and around these kinds of clothes. Likewise, he connects with the energetic, American vibe of Herb Ritts’s photos, which certain images in this lookbook were designed to reflect. But he’s just as fluent in kinky Parisian excess – as the embellished cone bras make clear, he relishes it. The only thing questionable is the punk-y, PVC headwear and masks.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.