Beautiful Melancholia. Dries Van Noten AW23

There are those Dries Van Noten collections, where the designer isn’t really into his usual vibrant flower-garden moments, and goes for something definitely more somber, melancholic. The autumn-winter 2023 collection shown in Paris today is one of those moody Dries seasons, and I love it with my whole heart. The latest offering has a dark and Antwerpian quality about it, with its velvets and antique-looking embroidered silks patchworked into turtleneck tops and jackets in a deconstructed, Martin Margiela manner. In general, the collection’s beautiful garments have that feel of being well worn, as if time has been behind the sun-bleached look of the tapestry florals or the weather-stained fringed hems of the dresses. With this line-up, Van Noten also reminds us that he’s a master colorist: the delightful palette of ochre, burgundy, maroon and lilac are here to inspire our wardrobe next autumn. There was also gold: sometimes super-polished, sometime crinkled on the waists of the coats. It was very kintsugi – the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery by mending the areas of breakage with lacquer dusted with powdered gold. In a world that needs lot of repairing to be done, why not wear this gorgeous Dries Van Noten collection?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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