The Holiday Album. Meryll Rogge AW23

The comedy (and drama) of a family portrait is one of the concepts that informed Meryll Rogge’s autumn-winter 2023 collection. Called “The Holiday Album“, it was inspired by a variety of sources, from Home Alone to Rogge’s very personal memories of Y2k – the event and the aesthetic. The Belgian designer’s latest collection included a group of ski-thermal pieces including a body-con dress and bodysuit with unexpected pockets that complimented the more directly ski and apres-ski looks, like quilted nylon outerwear and tulle-padded pants. The snowiest and most luxe piece was a hand-worked upcycled shearling coat. Only a few will be made. What was notable about the suiting this season was the trouser silhouette; Rogge opted for cigarette – or in the context of this collection, maybe peppermint stick is a better description – legs. Those grays were overpowered by the more vibrant and extravagant party looks. Known for her hybrid pieces, the designer not only fused tartan to denim jeans, but added a sort of fishtail or kick hem, revealing the lining that flutters as the wearer walks. Plaids were also made into more pajama-like looks. Conifers seemed to have inspired the A-line shapes, while Christmas tree tinsel was translated into crinkled metallics and satins, and many pieces were ornamented with large, dense, sequins. One of the best bits of the offering was a deconstructed dress in pink satin with mismatched vintage buttons. Roses stood in for poinsettias, too obvious a reference, the designer said, and they added dimensionality and fun to a pair of Rudolf-red briefs and a glorious, hand-embroidered dress with a Poiret-like silhouette. There was even a boxy “present” dress of red Lurex, the most literal take on the theme. This kind of very eclectic, general incoherence made sense in light of the (now very well exhausted) Y2K theme, and because holidays bring disparate family members (chosen or real) together.

Here are some of my favourite Meryll Rogge pieces you can shop right now:

Meryll Rogge blue and white shirt

Meryll Rogge beige trousers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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