Raw Femininity. Simone Rocha AW25

Simone Rocha channeled a tougher, rawer perspective on femininity, one close to her – and her 15 year old brand’s – heart. Faux-fur coats were sliced to ribbons halfway up from their hemlines, a gesture repeated across the collection, giving an animalistic, primary touch (and not-so-obvious sensuality). Jackets and skirts in Rocha’s tinsel-strafed bouclé tweed were also given the shredder treatment. The designer combined harnessing with lingerie, ruffles with chains, creating garments beaming with attitude.

That attitude was embodied by a cast of non-models, like the sensational actress Fiona Shaw who wore a duchesse-satin black gown. Rocha has been inviting characters of different walks of life to her runways for years; Burberry was certainly inspired this season by her always-working strategy of making clothes feel truly real.