Before moving to Milan to join Versace for good, Pieter Mulier delivered one last outing at Alaïa – a collection that felt less like a grand finale and more like a palate cleanser, even a kind of foundation laid out for his successor.

During his five years at the brand, Mulier pushed Azzedine Alaïa’s codes in unexpected directions – sometimes achieving remarkable finesse, at other times proposing busy, hectic ideas that risked overdressing the woman. His epilogue, however, is pleasing precisely because it returns to the core of what the house represents at its essence: body-enhancing clothes that appear simple, yet are in fact the result of meticulous construction and extraordinary precision.

That was Monsieur Alaïa’s intention behind every haute couture and ready-to-wear collection; Mulier seems to have taken it fully to heart here – better late than never. “To reduce, reduce,” he concluded backstage. No bags, no jewelry. “Only beauty and clothes and a naked shoe.”

And indeed, that understated beauty was visible in the clean lines of flared coats, scoop-neck engineered jersey dresses, and a perfectly tailored leather blazer.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.