It’s weirdly fascinating to see Nicolas Ghesquière return to minimalism – even if its lines are distinctly Belle Époque. His Louis Vuitton collection, closing Paris Fashion Week, ended up being one of my favorites of the season. The way he juxtaposed a very, very simple-looking camel-hued biker jacket with not-quite-slip dresses, or played with the breeziness of couture windbreakers, somehow made it all feel like a convincing wardrobe for today. It made me think warmly of his golden Balenciaga days. “Ergonomic” is the word that comes to mind, as well as “the impression of minimalism” – something Ghesquière has always been particularly good at playing with in the past. It’s very exciting to see the designer return with a line-up so urgent yet also light, which is always the most difficult thing to achieve. (Jonathan Anderson, for instance, failed to deliver that lightness at Dior this season.) Ghesquièrenaissance is upon us.