Designers seem to reconsider glamour this season in subverted, new ways. While this term seems to be far, far from Rick Owens‘ well-known aesthetic, the designer took a try with it and what came out is the brilliant autumn-winter 2019 collection. Who else can pull off a reference crossover of such names as Charles James (the only American couturier), Larry LeGaspi (the person who designed costumes for Labelle, Kiss, Grace Jones, and Divine) and Mariano Fortuny (the Spanish-born, Italy-based designer who was famous for pleats and prints)? Only Rick. All of those people did glamour in their own, idiosyncratic way, and Owens was interested in doing garments that have a bit of each of them in the seems, cuts and drapes. Wait, but it’s never a Rick Owens collection without a bit of darkness. The designer hired 18-year-old Salvia (see her Instagram! It’s disturbing, but you won’t stop scrolling) to consult on the show makeup. The models looked like alien princesses with all the face implants and prothesis. That’s post-apocalyptic chic.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.