Corporate chairs, violently covered with black tape, were placed all over the show venue. “Big lie… media America, corporate America… fascist America” spoke the mysterious voice as part of the soundtrack. Was Raf Simons about to sent down a line-up of corporate killers? It rather seemed like an underground tribe of rebellious boys who were about to fight with the old, power-holding white men, who block individuality. From one side, you could perceive this collection as Simons’ comeback to his comfort zone: defiant teenagers in rage. But from the other side, this might have been a cumulation of feelings gathered after the designer’s abrupt exit from Calvin Klein, which happened nearly a year ago. Today, Raf is again his own boss, and he’s sure of one thing: he despises corporate, capitalist America. “STONE(E)D AMERICA” sign appeared on a number of garments, while the hospital gowns and coats had “RS-LAB” labels on. The t-shirts were splattered with red paint, the knits were ripped, shorts were styled with heavy boots (as if the boys were off for a long crusade). Some models wore red scientist gloves – maybe Simons nodded to handling radioactive chemicals in this dystopian vision? This was a collection with a message, with emotions, but simultaneously is full of deadly good clothes. Raf doesn’t dissapoint.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.