Fetish For Glamour. Richard Quinn AW23

The scent of fresh flowers wafting through the portal into Richard Quinn’s autumn-winter 2023 set was already a near sensory overload. Followed by a few latex-clad ballet cats posing like brand mascots, it was clear it’s going to be another Quinn collection clashing the glamorous with fetishistic. What could have been a loud, possibly bombastically sensational occasion turned out to be as Quinn put it later, “something really ethereal. We’ve been looking at how we can elevate what we do. We’ve looked back at Chanel and Dior in the ’80s and ’90s – and they had that sense of poise and grace.” Quinn has been captivated by classic Parisian haute couture since he was a BA print student. He shot his first graduation collection of flower-painted 1950s crinolines on a set with a ladder, Irving Penn-style. All of his shows since have been an exaggeration of the silhouettes of that era, printed with a riot of colorful flowers, frequently subverted with gimp-suits and masked faces. In general, I thought latest collection looked as if Erdem and Balenciaga’s Demna had a fashion baby. There were neat floral dresses, and there were some eye-popping, dramatic moments, too, with a couture twist. But I’ve got no clue where is the actual Richard Quinn in all this mix (except for the florals).

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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