Packages of “Ninalicious” bubble gum were gifted to guests at Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s Nina Ricci show. This was a light-hearted nod to their new season silhouette, a floating dress in airy cloque (and in bubble-gum pink, of course) It’s their second season at the label, and they stir things up by taking the historical maison in an unexpected direction. For them Nina Ricci isn’t just about safe, lady-like dressing. The spring-summer 2020 line-up had humour and a quirky kind of youthfulness. Just look at the brightly colored buckets that functioned as bags and hats (these are great!). The designers said they were inspired by a summertime trip to the beach with their nephews and that they were after a sense of nostalgia. The joyous colour palette pleases the eye, just as the peplum tops and XXL ruffle dresses. But in general the collection lacks a stricter edit. The sharp tailoring doesn’t work with the overall softness of the line-up. Some of the silhouette look too exaggerated (take the opening look’s white top with unnecessary, big shoulder pads). Also, I feel like Botter and Herrebrugh still haven’t established their Nina Ricci look. Maybe it’s too early and they need time. Still, big thumbs up for their optymistic thinking.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.