Men’s – Romantic Spontaneity. Dries van Noten AW23

Dries Van Noten‘s autumn-winter 2023 menswear collection is infused with some of the designer’s favorite elements, like haute tailoring, floral romanticism, and a youthful spirit. And there’s also that feeling of spontaneity, which can definitely inspire your own wardrobe without going out for shopping. Besides the things Dries did with tailoring – lots of narrow waists, lean coat silhouettes – the rest of the collection was about “the freedom and self-expression of rave culture from the ’90s, combined with the quite surreal beauty of nature”. Strange partners, you might think, but Van Noten had found a novel seasonal way to exert his love of botanical prints in the work of the early 19th century German geologist and explorer Alexander von Humboldt. Once, when up a mountain at high altitude in the Andes, he wrote that “he started feeling trippy,” as Van Noten put it. “And so – rave!” Well, if that was a bit of a stretch as a conceptual leap, it did give him the excuse to design into some of his favorite signatures in flowery, exotic prints. The rave looks were played out through washed-out linen pants, swirly prints on jackets, and multiple layerings of lacy-knits and drapey sweatshirts. While the overall might feel slightly unedited, these are all of the casual separates that will be bought piece by piece by men, come summer.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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